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What the media says about us

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Thailand & Indochina Traveller
Date: June 1999

Body & Soul

Ambiance:Coconut grove heaven
Approach:> Nature and nurture
Price Range: Facial B300; massages B300- B400; special packages B700-B1,000
Recommended: Tamarind and Ginger welcome drink; herbal steam and plunge pool (a must); relaxation massage; wild mint foot massage
Best Buys: Prai and Aloe Vera Aftersun Lotion, Prai Shampoo, conditioner and soap, Thai herbal teas, Indonesia and Thai style cotton sarongs

A bumpy dirt track is not the best thing for a hangover, but that was the sole detraction on my road to wellness as we jostled our way towards the Tamarind Retreat spa on the island of Samui. "What a fabulous coconut grove!" my companion Amanda chirped, craning her neck out the jeep in a serious attempt to decapitate herself. Peering blearily at the sun-speckled trees, I feebly agreed. But the full effect hit only me when we disembarked from the jeep and started up the gravel path leading to an enormous thatched pavilion. Surrounded by emerald foliage, lush blossoms, and the island's ubiquitous coconut trees swaying in the floral scented breeze to the sound of sweetly chirping birds, the Tamarind Retreat spa seemed too idyllic to be true. At the entrance, I could even see attractive young sun-bronzed customers clad in sarongs lounging around the verandah. Everyone looked relaxed, except the receptionist at the giant slab of rock that served as the front desk; there was too many customers, and space was limited. Those who hadn't booked in advance would have to return later.

One yummy tamarind and ginger drink later (don't let the colour put you off), we were padding up the grassy slope to the herbal steam and plunge pool, nestled among natural boulders in the hillside. Obeying instructions, we plunged into the rocky pool, only to jump out shrieking a second later. Cold! Sufficiently cooled off, we eagerly proceeded to the next step of herbal steaming.

There can't be a steam room in the country as unique as this one, set between two boulders whose rocky sides serve as wall. Light filters through glazed panes in the ceiling, lending a mysterious haze to the misty, hot room. The spa has a charming policy of providing sarongs for customers to wear during plunging and steaming. Frolicking under the plunge pool's mini waterfall in my floral sarong, I felt lusciously exotic, like one of Gauguin's island nymphs. Inside, the sarong took on a different tone. Learning against a steamy stone beside a wilting Amanda, clad in our sarongs but still wearing jewelry, we hunched, Wilma Flintstone-like, as if waiting for Fred to barge in with a hunk of dinosaur.

However, the results were truly therapeutic. Early into the steaming and plunging process, my hangover had miraculously vanished. Later I was told that among the herbs used in the steam mixture, beach morning glory was said to clear hangovers and clear breathing. Other ingredients included lemon grass, camphor (aids breathing), prai, tamarind leaf, and kaffir lime (soothes skin).

Once accustomed to the steam and plunge, we grew to like it; it seemed that all too soon we were being called to our massages. We chose from a selection of tangerine, wild mint, prai, ylang ylang, nutmeg, and lemongrass for our oil massages. Then, in the spacious open-air pavilion we were kneaded to the background sounds of new age music, real live birds, and the cooling sea breeze. The Relaxation Massage here focuses on the upper back, a remedy for those who don't sit properly, tend to slouch on sofas or hunch at their computers too much. Ever-so-soothing facials and foot massages are given in planter's chairs so comfortable that I dozed off during mine.

Spa manager Shelley Poplak opened this' Oasis For Body and Soul' less than a year ago. Her very first experience upon landing in Phuket was a Thai herbal steam in a tiny cement room with herbs cooking in a pot outside. "Why not have this in a pretty garden?" she thought to herself, and so the Tamarind Retreat concept was born. The herbal steam is a traditional Thai therapy still found in country temples in the north, though the plunge pool is a western adaption.

A sense of well-being pervades as customers pad around barefoot, sipping on concoctions from the juice bar. Above our heads, colourful Tibetan prayer flags flutter from the ceiling, the lobby is protected by both a Buddhist shrine and a Hindu Ganesha, and not one, but three spirit houses guard the grounds outside.

"One for the spirit of the land, one for the spirit of the trees, and the smallest one for the spirit of the house," explains Shelley, "Spirituality is an important part of this spa," she murmurs in her gentle manner, "but with all the offering that entails, you can imagine how long it can take getting ourselves started in the morning!"

Chami Jotisalikorn

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